long - need advice about 1970's basement family room

16 years ago

A few years ago we purchased a bilevel house. You walk in front door, there is a small landing and 7 steps up to main living area and 7 steps down to family room. The family room has a door to garage and a fireplace opposite that door. We also have a sliding patio doors out to a former patio that had a 1980's sunroom addition.

The walls have inexpensive paneling and 2x4 acoustical ceiling tiles.

At the very least we want drywall and more ceiling lighting, and new ceiling tiles, possibly changing to 2x2 size. I don't think there is drywall under the paneling. Also, probably no insulation; it is a block wall basement.

We have just enough electrical outlets, but adding a couple extra could be ok. And while we are at it, replace the baseboard electric heaters and thermostat. We use the propane fireplace for heat though.

After that, a better, fire resistant, door to garage and new sliders.

I would like to see the brick fireplace get a "facelift" but that might be expensive and not sure how the existing propane insert could fit with a new tile or stone surface.

So, where do we start?

Remove ceiling & grid, and paneling. This is the point where we will call in help.

What kind of insulation is a good choice? Winters here are cold but usually doesn't get below 5 degrees.

Then the wiring for new lighting, electric outlets and maybe new cable outlet on other side of room.

What thickness drywall? And I am thinking changing the mouldings right along with the new drywall.

Then the ceiling & new lighting.

At this point we could just wait on new doors and fireplace facelift, then carpeting last.

I welcome any advice on the best plan of action or materials or cost saving ideas.

Can the current ceiling metal grid be left in place during this process? Trying to save on costs, but if we want new 2x2 tiles then probably not.

Thanks for making it to end of this very long post.

Comments (6)

ron6519
16 years ago
Where do you live. Adding the correct amount of insulation will be regionally sensitive.
The ceiling grid is attached to the walls, so it would seem the ceiling gets removed first. You can disassemble it and reuse the parts if they're in good shape, but the two foot fill-ins won't match in color unless you paint all the tracks. If you weren't doing work on the walls the ceiling track system could stay in place.
Personnally I would demo the ceilings and walls. How you handle the wall structure will depend on the amount of insulation you want.
A drywalled ceiling would cost much less then the tiles.
Ron
farfrae
Original Author
16 years ago
Ron, thank you for replying. We live in Lancaster, PA. My husband says there is insulation behind the paneling, but we want to change it out.
We have not had any leaks but how difficult is it to change out portions of a drywall ceiling?

I am thinking all of the following needs to be done first.

We need more lighting, recessed ceiling lights would probably the best choice. Also hiding some phone and computer wires, and 2-3 additional elec. outlets and adding another cable outlet. I want new mouldings. And of course new insulation.

We could do the demo work, paint the drywall and moulding, and change out the thermostat and elec. baseboard heaters.

Things like new doors, fireplace facelift, and carpet can come later.
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ron6519
16 years ago
"We have not had any leaks but how difficult is it to change out portions of a drywall ceiling?"

I've had a drywall ceiling for 15 years in the basement and haven't had any reason to touch it. If you want to identify any potential problems while the ceiling is open, fine. This way you minimize opening the ceiling at a later time.
Say for instance there's a bathroom above on the first floor in a house that's 40 years old. I might look at the tub or shower traps as potential issues and replace them while the ceiling is open.
Every house is different and you don't need to anticipate every possibility. It's drywall. If you need to cut it open, cut it open. You repair the ceiling and paint it.
It's not brain surgery, but alot of the tools are the same.
Ron
worthy
16 years ago
It's not brain surgery, but a lot of the tools are the same. In a documentary, I actually saw a surgeon wielding a Black & Decker drill to open a skull for brain surgery. When questioned, he said he found it a lot better than the overpriced stainless steel models that he used to use.
Brewbeer
16 years ago
Given the amount of work you are proposing, it would probably be best to gut the entire room all the way down to the ceiling joists and bare concrete walls. There are special insulation considerations for masonry walls that differ from wood framed construction (check out the basements forum).
farfrae
Original Author
16 years ago
worthy and brewbeer, thanks for your replies. I am guessing we will gut the whole thing when we start. About the only items that could wait are the new carpet and fireplace facelift. But that fireplace work is so messy it would be better to do it with everything else.