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How to clear a 120' drain
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Posted by homebound (My Page) on Tue, Mar 9, 10 at 19:52
| A friend requires yearly rooter service ($500 and up) for their main sewer that backs up 115' downstream from the cleanout in the front yard. It's about just as far if one pulls the toilet in the basement bath.
Their floor drain backs up to show the clog has returned. They had the line scoped. It's not collapsed (clay), but they may have tree root hairs gumming it up.
Anyway, other than periodic Rootx maintenance that could have been done before the problem reoccurs, what can be done by a homeowner now before calling in the big guns again?
(New pipe or relining is out of their budget for the forseeable future.) Thanks. |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: How to clear a 120' drain
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| The owner should take at least two remedial approaches. One is to add a 'backwater valve' to the main building drain in order to permanently eliminate sewer backups into the house completely. The second is to add cleanouts at least every 50 feet to the building sewer which will make sewer cleaning easier. Otherwise, the owner needs to consider replaceing the entire building sewer with plumbing materials (like PVC) that resists root infiltration. |
RE: How to clear a 120' drain
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| "One is to add a 'backwater valve' to the main building drain in order to permanently eliminate sewer backups into the house completely." Not always allowed since it prevents venting of the main line to the sewers in the street. Backwater valves are also a maintenance item, usually found when the clog and flood the basement with black water. |
RE: How to clear a 120' drain
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| Owner asked if they couldn't just hire laborers to dig a hole to add another clean-out. Last time the county was called I took a look down the manhole - geez did that thing seem deep at the end point (25'-30'?), so hand digging is unsafe and out of the question. |
RE: How to clear a 120' drain
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| Homebound, There is a copper based product sold at any hardware/big box store, that when poured into the drain, will attach itself to any living roots and kill them. Generally, it doesn't harm the entire tree, just that portion associated with the root. Once done, the root can be cut loose with a cutter attached to a snake. This may or may not eliminate future roots from entering but will lengthen the need to re-attack the problem to 3-5 years or more. If the product is used on a regular basis, snaking would be pretty much eliminated. Also, start in the Home Depot rental section. You will see 2 prices on the rental equipment. One is to rent, the other is to buy. The buy price is 50% or more discount than a new one. About 6 years ago a friend needed a 100 foot snake to clear a drain. He was able to get one of the manual hand cranked reel types with all the attachments (included cutting blades) for $125.00. The new cost for it was $250.00. I went through that section myself and picked up a fantastic 3 speed motorized with reverse (roto rooter type) for 200 bucks that we use for the business. The new price for that one was over 500 bucks. They both came with full manuals, use instructions and a warranty. Of course, they have new ones if your friend would want to opt for one. |
RE: How to clear a 120' drain
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| had the city come out with their camera to check out line. about 10' in, there was a nice root growth. camera actually pushed the plug out to the street. maybe 60'. we augered the line and it was ok for 15months but we just go a backup again last week. the offending bushed in the front of the house were tore out last summer. we have no plants above the trouble spot now. city guy said the pipe looked ok. no mismatch to see. just thinks it is a seam/joint. we could dig down 8' and pack cement around the pipe but i am holding off. i have a 15' piece of 1" heavy wall poly tubing i use to open the clog. i push it down the main cleanout and can feel the clog. i can see standing water in the cleanout and when i use the poly, i can see and hear the water drop. |
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